J’accuse rarely ventures into the field of culinary blogging or, for that matter, of restaurant reviewing. We do drop a mention of a place that has tickled our senses every now and then but we very rarely sit down to blog simply to write poems and sing songs about one particular establishment. Well the time has come to do so and that is because this restaurant nestled in the heart of Sodom (aka Paceville) merits every bit of attention your eyes, your palate and your pocket can afford. This is not a restaurant review – we do not purport to be vested with that kind of expertise – this is a standing ovation that was virtually imposed by the delivery of good food in circumstances that exalt the importance of normality.
It goes without saying that Malta’s Best Restaurant (as per J’accuse) is based in Paceville. Sandwiched between on the one hand the shooter-shop clad steps that lead to the ex-O’Caseys (now a shisha bar of minimal furbishment) and on the other the ever popular Eden Cinemas that still enjoy the virtual monopoly of Hollywoodian vision on the islands is a lovely mainly fish restaurant that serves Italian inspired delicacies. The motto chosen by this establishment is “arte nel cibo” (art in food) and believe you me that art it is and food you will get.
If like me you hate the fancier side of eating out (and by fancy I mean the silver service rubbish with a waiter dedicated to topping your glass every time you dare sip out a few millilitres of the liquid) then fear not. At this restaurant you will get all the attention you deserve with the ubiquitous presence of a few ultra-efficient serveurs. Wine will be topped, chilled, decanted or whatever tickles your viticultural nerves without too much of that formal kow-towing that tends to transform a formal night out into some rigid masonic ritual.
La carte is simple without too much fluff. At the end of the day your choice is mind-blowingly basic – fresh fish or (if the creatures of the sea are not your idea of mmm) then chunks from beasts of the land are available in different forms therein to sink your teeth. Do listen to what the knowledgeable persons have to say about the specials of the day but if you are particularly curious to find out the best of what this kitchen has to offer then you will love the Menu Degustation – best ventured into in groups of 6+.
I will not describe the food itself nor the creations that I and my happy companions tasted on that particular night. I will only urge you to take a special evening out and head straight to Sciacca – for that is the establishment’s name. Sample the art that is all around you – from an unintrusive but pleasant decor to the simple delicacy of every morsel that is on offer. The only gripe I could find is the missing Gewurztraminer from the wine list – but that is a very personal gripe and peccadillo and the Australian Riesling was just fine in its stead.
So there you go. Head over to Sciacca today, or tomorrow, or as soon as you can. Trust me. It’s worth it.
Sciacca – arte nel cibo – is in Paceville, St. Julian’s.
