Walking around Valletta during my last visit to Malta I opted to pass through “is-Suq”, the closed food market that is still crying out to be converted for proper use. I would not use the word dilapidated but the state of what should be a vibrant part of the City of Gentlemen leaves much to be desired. Travel to any city in Europe and you will find different versions of these closed markets that have gone through a recent transformation and revitalisation. The quest for organic and health food has contributed quite a little to this phenomenon – allowing for a return to grassroots shopping. It does not necessarily have to be that though – the space occupied by these historic buildings can be regenerated for new use too.
The market featured in the main illustration to this article is Rotterdam’s recently built Markthal (Market Hall). It is a splendid example of a modern version of the market. London, Barcelona, Paris, Canterbury, Metz, Bayonne… all sport their covered markets that bustle with activity.
This month we got the news that Valletta’s market was earmarked for development and refurbishment. “Finally” is the first reaction. Then your heart is filled with fear and apprehension. Yes, that is the second reaction, because when it comes to planning, designing an using urban spaces we are unfortunately subject to the whims and tasteless fancies of the politicien de tour. In a way it is only just right that we get our just desserts in the sense that when we elect these know-it-alls to the seats of power we sort of imply a handover for the general running and administration of the country. In purely hypothetical terms the theory of democracy includes that assumption that these beings are instilled with a strong civic sense – they are Aristotle’s spoudaios. Whatever project they will embark upon, they will do so with the highest sense of civic standard.
Never was an assumption so wrongly made. Sure there have always been different schools of thought as to the use of urban space. Michelangelo’s David (also due to the size) was the subject of much speculation in the “Where shall we put it?” department in fifteenth century Florence. The problem is that our supposèd spoudaios or civic minded rulers are often too bothered with the management of power in the crude sense to worry about anything else such as bothersome concepts of aesthetics, civic appropriateness and urban practicality.
Thus what should be a wholistic use of urban space ad maiorem popoli comoditatem becomes a pawn in the cashing of electoral cheques, in the spiting of opposition plans and before you know it – magnificent plans for an open space at the Valletta entrance will be soiled by a hawker’s paradise and the setting up of a permanent monti (and yes, it is Monti by now… an acquired nomenclature unless you are stuck in some corner of the island – hell, it’s even monti in Gozo which is miles away from the Monte di Pietà).
With the current government it is all about demagogic decisions and statements combined with the fulfilment of hidden pacts and promises. So do not hold your breath for Valletta’s suq. When the time comes you can expect the latest buzillis coming up to the ministers of government to cash his pre-electoral promises. I’m guessing restaurants and cafes will take the place of butchers and grocers (they are a dying breed anyway). We can only hope that we will be spared a flourishing of eight pointed crosses or cacti, luzzi, and whatsnot.
From where I am sitting government policy on urban development is a carte blanche that is available to the highest bidder, no matter how tacky, no matter how unpractical, no matter how ridiculously unfit his plans may be. Whether it is votes or money that is being bid is irrelevant. The Taghna Lkoll trademark is bound to leave its mark on the new Suq too.
